How cuddling are thy waters O' Mother,
They have romanced with history & time together.
How wide are thy ramparts,
They have kept heaven and earth apart.
How alluring is thy grace
It embodies the lenity of the Indian race.
How wide are thy ramparts,
They have kept heaven and earth apart.
How alluring is thy grace
It embodies the lenity of the Indian race.
My affair with Ganga began many a springs ago when I took a dip in the Bhagirathi near Srinagar. Prodded by my father who himself had spent his youth near its banks. I prepared myself for my baptism with the ice cold water. The first dip sent a frosty chill down my spine and random thoughts of escaping the cold wet misery hit me. But before thoughts could conceive into actions and as if judging my precarious situation my father pulled me further into the river. After the initial fear and shock I got a drift of the surroundings, which was further strengthened by frequent visits to its banks year after year during my summer vacations. I learnt my 1st swimming lessons at the banks of the Bhagirathi.
Ganga, the name evokes faith... ecstasy.... passion.... suggests constant motion.... breeds change. Millions flock to its banks to seek divine solace. It has stood witness to the rise and fall of many a civilizations. Through myths and maxims the river has stood for progression, yet its waters are the same - cool and refreshing. As if suggesting - always keep pace with time but don't change the inherent nature of human beings, i.e., to love and to be loved. Ganga touches every aspect of our existence: from life to death, from livelihood to meditation, and from pleasure to salvation.
Ganga, the name evokes faith... ecstasy.... passion.... suggests constant motion.... breeds change. Millions flock to its banks to seek divine solace. It has stood witness to the rise and fall of many a civilizations. Through myths and maxims the river has stood for progression, yet its waters are the same - cool and refreshing. As if suggesting - always keep pace with time but don't change the inherent nature of human beings, i.e., to love and to be loved. Ganga touches every aspect of our existence: from life to death, from livelihood to meditation, and from pleasure to salvation.
For those who populate the subcontinent, Ganga is a divine message being sent to the Gods to cleanse the mankind of its sins and, for all mortals who come to its banks to seek divine sanction and pave the way for a smooth passage to a heavenly-afterlife. The devout believe that a dip in the Ganges and an invocation of the river's holy name ensures permanent liberation of the human soul: the Atman merges with the Brahman. In Hindu mythology it is believed that if a body is cremated at the Manikarnika ghat (Maha-Shamshan) in Varanasi, the soul reaches Baikunth.
Embedded in the river's mystical flow are a plethora of myths and legends that have inspired the sages and seers over the centuries. The inexhaustible Ganges is not only the bedrock of faith for Hindus who reside in India and elsewhere in the world, it has also inspired the imagination of many travelers and sages who have traversed up and down its course in their search for the true meaning of human existence. Many have gone back totally transformed; others have found solace by settling down along its banks.
Once an American University invited Late. Ustad Bismillah Khan, the great Shehnai player, to be their musician-in-residence, and asked him to state his terms. Bismilliah Khan replied, he would only come if he could bring his beloved Ganga with him. The great ustad breathed his last in his beloved Varanasi, near the banks of his love Ganga with the gongs of Kashi Vishwanath ringing in his years. It was his only mannat. Such was the affair between the musician and the maiden.
Now turning back to my rendezvous with Ganga at Rishikesh. Rishikesh provides access to the mighty Himalayas. It abounds in natural brilliance. The spectacle of the Ganga rushing through the Himalayan foothills is an awesome sight. It brings memories flooding back of winding hill roads teasing you with tantalizing glimpses of Ganga with its serpentine course, nature blanketed with motley foliage and of splendorous autumnal hues. The wholesome atmosphere, lush green vegetation, flaming of incense sticks, gongs of temple bells makes it a perfect sight for meditation and devotion. It has come out to be one of the centers for schools of yoga and meditation along with its diversified adventure sports.
Though my stout exteriors have successful camouflaged my amphibious nature yet whenever I come across a river or stream my 1st evening at the banks of the Bhagirathi comes flashing and I rush towards the waters…be it Betwa or Chambal or Narmada or Kosi or Son or the rain filled puddles near my house.
Mr. Deepak Shourie, Head, Discovery Channel India, rightly comments, all forms of life that thrive along its banks reflect the remarkable element of unbreakable perpetuity. The Sundarbans in the east and the Corbett National Park in the north are two thriving symbols of the endless bounty of the Ganges. But it obviously isn't just wildlife and forest covers that the Ganges sustains. Cities, towns and thriving commercial centres along its course - Gangotri, Devaprayag, Rishikesh, Haridwar, Allahabad, Benaras, Patna and finally, Kolkata - owe their existence and prosperity to the river. For holy men, boatmen and various entrepreneurs, the Ganges is the divine life force that gives generously but asks for nothing in return. Hence in Indian mythology and folklore, the Ganges is equated with a mother, the giver of life.
As I was nearing Rishikesh I could sense the urge of a child who is about to meet his long lost mother. And as soon as they meet he runs wildly towards her and tries to hide in her lap so that she can overwhelm him with her love and care and salt away all the worries and anticipation that life throws before him at every corner. Needless to say the reunion went on for hours.
Ganga in Uttarakhand is different from the Ganga in the other parts. Here the river transforms into a fairy tale maiden, it’s pace exploding from the exuberance of youth and vitality. In the middle part of India, the river more or less is in its middle stages; calm and smooth. And finally at Kolkata it's the essence of the ages it has criss-crossed. But I shall keep up with the Ganga in Uttarakhand for it defines the soul of India…. exuberant…. full of vitality…. yet at peace with its past and present and sublimely anticipating the course that lies ahead.
The true source of the Ganga is at Gaumukh at a height of 13,500 feet. From here its two main sources, the Alaknanda and Bhagirithi flow past the sacred villages Badrinath and Gangotri regarded as the most revered centres of pilgrimage. Further south, the Alaknanda river is joined by Mandakini, a lesser source that rises near Kedarnath, another centre of pilgrimage. At Deoprayag, the Alaknanda joins the Bhagirathi and is hence called the Ganga. The route to Gangotri follows steep mountainsides along the Bhagirathi Valley, passing among dense forests of cedar and pine and through little towns. The approach is through a rocky defile that booms with the sound of the river.
I chose a spot outside the city around 10 kms before Shivpuri, a place famous for white water rafting. There in the lonesome wilderness the mother and the son met. I took numerous dips in the cold, refreshing water, tried to cut through the current. The best thing about Ganga here is that if you are even a bit proficient in swimming you will never drown as the current is strong; all you have to take care is of the rocks and sharp edges.
If you want to make the trip a little more enjoyable, carry along some tea and sandwiches. So while leaving Jollygrant, I tanked my thermos (a must for a traveler to these parts) with Earl Grey and packed some cucumber and tomato sandwiches. And yes words of caution do carry a paper bag along so that you can put all the waste in it and dispose it at an appropriate place. It's really sad to see many tourists’ places in India turning into garbage dumps.
Once an American University invited Late. Ustad Bismillah Khan, the great Shehnai player, to be their musician-in-residence, and asked him to state his terms. Bismilliah Khan replied, he would only come if he could bring his beloved Ganga with him. The great ustad breathed his last in his beloved Varanasi, near the banks of his love Ganga with the gongs of Kashi Vishwanath ringing in his years. It was his only mannat. Such was the affair between the musician and the maiden.
Now turning back to my rendezvous with Ganga at Rishikesh. Rishikesh provides access to the mighty Himalayas. It abounds in natural brilliance. The spectacle of the Ganga rushing through the Himalayan foothills is an awesome sight. It brings memories flooding back of winding hill roads teasing you with tantalizing glimpses of Ganga with its serpentine course, nature blanketed with motley foliage and of splendorous autumnal hues. The wholesome atmosphere, lush green vegetation, flaming of incense sticks, gongs of temple bells makes it a perfect sight for meditation and devotion. It has come out to be one of the centers for schools of yoga and meditation along with its diversified adventure sports.
Though my stout exteriors have successful camouflaged my amphibious nature yet whenever I come across a river or stream my 1st evening at the banks of the Bhagirathi comes flashing and I rush towards the waters…be it Betwa or Chambal or Narmada or Kosi or Son or the rain filled puddles near my house.
Mr. Deepak Shourie, Head, Discovery Channel India, rightly comments, all forms of life that thrive along its banks reflect the remarkable element of unbreakable perpetuity. The Sundarbans in the east and the Corbett National Park in the north are two thriving symbols of the endless bounty of the Ganges. But it obviously isn't just wildlife and forest covers that the Ganges sustains. Cities, towns and thriving commercial centres along its course - Gangotri, Devaprayag, Rishikesh, Haridwar, Allahabad, Benaras, Patna and finally, Kolkata - owe their existence and prosperity to the river. For holy men, boatmen and various entrepreneurs, the Ganges is the divine life force that gives generously but asks for nothing in return. Hence in Indian mythology and folklore, the Ganges is equated with a mother, the giver of life.
As I was nearing Rishikesh I could sense the urge of a child who is about to meet his long lost mother. And as soon as they meet he runs wildly towards her and tries to hide in her lap so that she can overwhelm him with her love and care and salt away all the worries and anticipation that life throws before him at every corner. Needless to say the reunion went on for hours.
Ganga in Uttarakhand is different from the Ganga in the other parts. Here the river transforms into a fairy tale maiden, it’s pace exploding from the exuberance of youth and vitality. In the middle part of India, the river more or less is in its middle stages; calm and smooth. And finally at Kolkata it's the essence of the ages it has criss-crossed. But I shall keep up with the Ganga in Uttarakhand for it defines the soul of India…. exuberant…. full of vitality…. yet at peace with its past and present and sublimely anticipating the course that lies ahead.The true source of the Ganga is at Gaumukh at a height of 13,500 feet. From here its two main sources, the Alaknanda and Bhagirithi flow past the sacred villages Badrinath and Gangotri regarded as the most revered centres of pilgrimage. Further south, the Alaknanda river is joined by Mandakini, a lesser source that rises near Kedarnath, another centre of pilgrimage. At Deoprayag, the Alaknanda joins the Bhagirathi and is hence called the Ganga. The route to Gangotri follows steep mountainsides along the Bhagirathi Valley, passing among dense forests of cedar and pine and through little towns. The approach is through a rocky defile that booms with the sound of the river.
I chose a spot outside the city around 10 kms before Shivpuri, a place famous for white water rafting. There in the lonesome wilderness the mother and the son met. I took numerous dips in the cold, refreshing water, tried to cut through the current. The best thing about Ganga here is that if you are even a bit proficient in swimming you will never drown as the current is strong; all you have to take care is of the rocks and sharp edges.
If you want to make the trip a little more enjoyable, carry along some tea and sandwiches. So while leaving Jollygrant, I tanked my thermos (a must for a traveler to these parts) with Earl Grey and packed some cucumber and tomato sandwiches. And yes words of caution do carry a paper bag along so that you can put all the waste in it and dispose it at an appropriate place. It's really sad to see many tourists’ places in India turning into garbage dumps.
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